Taking on the Top End

Waterfall swims, close croc encounters and our wildest road trip yet

Red dirt, enormous termite mounds, emus running beside the Ranger and our first snake sighting of the trip. The Northern Territory felt completely different from anywhere we’d travelled so far.

We’re Grace and Matt, two teachers travelling around Australia for a year as part of The BIG Aussie Review. After North Queensland, we headed west along the Savannah Way, crossed into the Territory and made our way north to Darwin.

Along the way, we found crystal-clear springs, incredible wildlife and distances that showed us just how big Australia really is. We stayed at two BIG4 parks near Darwin, then headed south through Katherine and Nitmiluk National Park.

Keep reading for our favourite stops, park highlights and the three reviews we most enjoyed creating along the way.

Follow in our footsteps or pick and choose the stops that suit your own adventure

Red dirt, roadside stops and crystal-clear springs

Savannah Way | Normanton | Mataranka

We were overwhelmed with the number of places to swim in the NT. This was in Mataranka

Taking the long road into the Territory

Our journey began in Port Douglas and took us through Atherton, Normanton, Burketown and Mount Isa before we headed north through the centre.

The scale of the landscape took us by surprise. The termite mounds were enormous, the red dirt seemed endless and our wildlife sightings included a dingo, pigs, kangaroos, wallabies, emus and our first snake of the trip, thankfully seen from inside the Ranger.

Quick stops at Leichhardt Falls, Normanton’s enormous crocodile replica and the crystal-clear water at Gregory Downs became some of the most memorable parts of the drive.

Roadside stop: In Normanton, we stopped beside the life-sized replica of what’s claimed to be the largest saltwater crocodile ever shot. Opinions on the record vary, but it was enormous, big enough to swallow both of us whole.

Unexpected highlight: Leichhardt Falls was meant to be just a lunch stop, but a walk along the river revealed an inland waterfall system completely different from the coastal landscapes we’d seen so far.

After a great time in QLD, we were so excited to head somewhere we've never been before in the Northern Territory

Swimming in the Top End

One of our biggest surprises was discovering how many beautiful swimming spots there are through this part of Australia.

We had imagined avoiding the water completely in crocodile country. Instead, we found waterfalls and springs with monitored swimming areas during the dry season, and quickly learned to check signs and speak to local rangers before entering the water.

Mataranka was another memorable stop. Like Gregory Downs, its crystal-clear water was far too good for somewhere we had planned to visit briefly.

The heat was a much bigger adjustment. After tackling several walks, we realised we needed to carry far more water than we were used to, and being able to cool the Ranger remotely before returning from a walk was particularly welcome.

Local tip: Always follow current signs and ranger advice before swimming in the Northern Territory, because conditions can change even at popular swimming spots.

Lesson learned: Take more drinking water than you think you’ll need. We learned that the hard way after getting pretty dehydrated on a walk.

We've been stoked to discover all the amazing swimming spots in the NT. Here we are in Litchfield National Park

Waterfalls, wildlife and a welcome return to BIG4

Howard Springs | Litchfield National Park | Adelaide River

We were lucky enough to be treated to a few nights in a glamping tent at BIG4 Howard Springs Holiday Park

A little luxury at Howard Springs

After several remote stops, arriving at BIG4 Howard Springs Holiday Park felt a bit like coming home.

Running water, power, shade and grassy sites had never looked so good, especially after finding a few surprise frogs in toilets elsewhere along the way. A familiar BIG4 setup felt surprisingly luxurious.

The park also let us swap the caravan for a safari tent for two nights, a fun change from our usual setup.

Must-do day trip: We spent a full day in Litchfield National Park, taking in waterfalls, walks and enormous termite mounds. It doesn’t always get the attention of Australia’s other famous national parks, but it completely blew us away.

Wangi Falls was a standout, with its tropical setting and swimming area. Creating the review let us show off a more hidden part of the waterfall that we thought deserved more attention.

Park favourite: The adults-only pool was very welcome during the school holidays, a shaded escape from the relentless Territory heat.

Unexpected neighbours: Peacocks regularly wandered up to the safari tent and caravan for a look around. We’d spotted plenty across the Territory, but having them visit our site was something else.

Wangi Falls in Litchfield National Park was a real standout

The adults-only pool at BIG4 Howard Springs Holiday Park was the perfect place to escape the heat

Half a metre from a crocodile

The Adelaide River 'Jumping Crocs' cruise was right near the top of our list before the trip, and it completely lived up to expectations.

The boat was a great size, the guides were knowledgeable and passionate, and there were far more crocodiles than we expected, some only about half a metre away, which was both incredible and slightly nerve-racking.

Seeing crocodiles that close gave us a new appreciation for their size and power, and it was easily one of the biggest highlights of our lap so far.

Bucket-list experience: If seeing crocodiles in their natural environment is on your list, an organised Adelaide River cruise with experienced guides is the way to do it.

When they say 'Jumping Crocs' they mean it!

Darwin adventures from Hidden Valley

Hidden Valley | Darwin | Darwin Harbour

A lively stay near Darwin

Our second BIG4 stop was BIG4 Hidden Valley Holiday Park, which was buzzing thanks to a major motocross event nearby.

The park was full of riders and supporters, creating plenty of activity and a fun, close-knit atmosphere. We weren’t involved in the event, but it was great seeing the community it brought together.

What’s nearby: The Darwin Aviation Museum is only about 1km from the park. Matt enjoyed it more than Grace, but seeing the aircraft up close and learning about the bombing of Darwin made it a fascinating visit for both of us, and it’s handy if the weather isn’t cooperating.

Park favourite: Hidden Delights, the on-site café, was an easy choice for breakfast before heading out, with good food available without leaving the park.

Relaxing in style by the inviting pool at BIG4 Hidden Valley Holiday Park

A Darwin sunset from the water

BIG4 Hidden Valley Holiday Park also organised for us to join a sunset cruise from Darwin, giving us one of the best views of the city’s famous sunsets.

Seeing the sunset from the harbour was next level. We spotted dolphins, met some lovely fellow passengers and tried crocodile and kangaroo meat on board, both new experiences for us.

Darwin must-do: Dolphins, great food and our first taste of crocodile and kangaroo made the harbour cruise one of our favourite nights in the Top End.

Cooking up a feast on the Dometic slide-out BBQ on the back of our van after a dip at BIG4 Hidden Valley Holiday Park

Waterfall swims and walks near Katherine

Nitmiluk National Park | Edith Falls | Katherine

After Darwin, we headed south to Katherine and stayed inside Nitmiluk National Park before continuing west towards Kununurra.

The national park gave us the chance to tackle more walks, and it showed us that the Territory can feel surprisingly small: at the visitor centre, we randomly ran into Matt’s boss and then a student from his school.

Our favourite waterfall swim

One of the biggest highlights around Katherine was Edith Falls.

After a relatively short walk, we reached an incredible swimming spot that Grace now rates as her favourite waterfall swim of the trip so far, with swimming areas lower down and another place to cool off higher up.

It was exactly what we needed after walking in the Territory’s heat and a memorable way to finish this stage of the journey.

Must-do: Make time for Edith Falls while exploring the Katherine region. The walking, swimming and scenery made it one of our favourite stops in the Northern Territory.

Road-trip reminder: Even a short walk feels tougher in Northern Territory heat, so carry plenty of water.

The views in Nitmiluk National Park make any hike worth it

Edith Falls were a great spot to hike to and cool off with a swim

Our standout Northern Territory reviews

These are the three reviews we most enjoyed creating in the Northern Territory.

#1 When running water feels like five-star luxury

After several remote stays, returning to BIG4 Howard Springs Holiday Park felt like a genuine relief, with running water, power and shade waiting for us.

#2 The waterfall review that almost didn’t come together

Our Wangi Falls review almost didn’t come together, but by focusing on the little infinity-style pool beside the waterfall, a real hidden gem, it became one of our most genuine.

#3 Half a metre from a jumping crocodile

Seeing crocodiles up close from a small boat, with passionate guides and some very close encounters, brought a completely different wow factor to this bucket-list review.

The Northern Territory was hot, huge and completely different from anything we’d experienced before. Waterfall swims, red-dirt roads, Darwin sunsets and more crocodiles than we could count gave us plenty of stories to take into the next leg.

Next stop: Western Australia.